HEAD 'EM UP, MOVE 'EM OUT:
THE LONG DRIVE
Dust swirls around the running horses and mules as they loped into the
Layton Springs pasture on the northeast shore of shimmering Crowley Lake
in Eastern California. Riders emerged through the dusty haze whooping at
the stock as the herd thundered into the grassy field.
Under the direction of Lou Roeser, the Mammoth Lakes Pack Outfit moved
over one hundred and fifty head of horses and mules between summer pack
station headquarters at Lake Mary in Mammoth Lakes, California and
winter pasture in the Owens Valley twice each year. During the busy
summer season, the packers, wranglers, horses and mules worked steadily
packing in vacationers and their gear into the John Muir Wilderness
Area. The return trip to winter pasture is over 100 miles in length with
five days of hard riding from Mammoth Lakes to the 5,500 acre winter
pasture near Fort Independence. The historic old-time
pack outfit was owned and operated by Lou and Marye Roeser and their
family from 1960 to 1998.
The trails followed by the Outfit on their annual Horse Drives have been
used for 150 years by ranchers driving their herds of cattle, sheep,
horses and mules back and forth to summer pasture in Long Valley and
winter pasture in the Owens Valley. Early ranchers, often following
Indian trails, created these trails. The trails were known by various
names such as the Rickey Trail, the Dry Trail, the Casa Diablo Trail and
the Sherwin Hill Trail. Roeser pioneered the routes used on this modern
Trail Drive. The terrain today was on trails and dirt roads with few
fences.
The Outfit resumed the traditional Horse Drives to and from winter
pasture in 1975 when it became increasingly difficult to locate
livestock haulers who still used single-deck
livestock trailers. Horses do not fit in the double-decker
cattle and sheep trailers used by modern stock ranchers. Before the
advent of cattle trucks and trailers, pack station operators and
ranchers, drove their livestock to summer headquarters in these
mountains from their winter ranches in the Owens Valley and returned to
the valley in the fall.
The current Trail Drive accommodated fifty or more guests and 30
crewmembers. Clients of the pack station were working members of the
Drive learning that moving horses and mules is quite different than
herding cattle. Guests and crew camped out together along the trail. At
each night's stop, a fenced pasture, holding pen or corrals were there
for the stock where they were fed and watered.
Preparation for the Long Drive had been going on for some time prior to
departure. Customer reservations were checked, rechecked and nametags
printed out. This Drive was not for novices or beginning riders so new
customers were screened for their riding abilities. The horses were
ridden at a jog or trot most of the distance with an average of over 20
miles covered each day. These horses were not trained for the show ring
but were steady, sturdy, surefooted mountain horses.
Camp equipment was hauled out of the "Big Saddle Shed" and sorted and
cleaned. All the equipment had to be in good working order before being
loaded into horses trailers and trucks for camp. Folding tables, chairs,
tablecloths, lanterns and shade or rain canvas tarps were readied, to be
loaded in a horse trailer along with water jugs, firewood, fire pans,
BBQ's, charcoal, shovels and rakes. Tepee tents with their porta-potties
were loaded in the trailer. At camp, a wash area shelf was hooked onto
the side of a horse trailer, complete with wash pans, mirrors, a water
tank and even a spray hose for washing hair. No hot water though!
Menus had to be finalized and food ordered, pre-cooked, prepared, frozen
and ready to pack into many ice chests. In later years, the pack station
engineered a kitchen that was inserted into an 8 horse stock trailer
that became the chuckwagon. Included were a stove, sinks, a water tank,
work counters and storage shelves. Hooks were placed for lanterns to be
hung from. There were 3 burner butane stoves for cooking outside the
trailers. Cowboy coffee always simmered on one of these burners or hung
on a hook over the campfire.
Another 8 horse stock trailer was the "bed wagon" and all bedrolls and
duffle bags were transported to each camp. Guests brought their own
bedrolls and personal tents and were responsible for setting them up
each night and packing them up again each morning.
Horses had to be checked out for shoes and reshod if necessary. Saddles,
bridles, pads and blankets were all readied. Each guest had an
identifying tag attached to their saddle to help them identify the
saddle assigned to them. Shoeing kits, grooming tools and vet boxes were
loaded up.
A water truck with a 2,000 gallon water tank for stock water and large
water troughs accompanied the Drive on what was called the "Dry Trail".
The hay truck was a pickup truck with a flatbed trailer and was loaded
each day with alfalfa hay for the evening. Catch grain was carried for
morning treats for the saddle horses.
The day before the Drive, the stock were hauled or driven down the
"hill" to Sierra Meadows Ranch Equestrian Center also owned by the
Roesers where the Drive began. The stock was put in the arenas ready for
the next morning. Guests checked into local motels for a comfortable bed
and a last shower before the dusty drive. McGee Creek Pack Station stock
was hauled to the Chance Ranch where they would join the Drive.
On the first morning, the wranglers carefully matched riders to their
horses and saddles for the five-day drive. Many of the guests returned
each year and requested particular mounts for the ride. Lou and Larry
gave instructions on what the newcomers should expect and tips on how to
ride. Wranglers would be stationed throughout the remuda to assist
guests and keep the herd together. New horses and young horses would not
be trail wise on the first days of the Drive and riders had to be alert.
This morning, the drive departed from Mammoth Lakes at a fast clip, on
the first section of a five day odyssey through the sagebrush, pastures
and open countryside of Long Valley. When the corral gates were opened,
the stock rushed out and had to be quickly guided and bunched up by the
experienced riders. Lou had the crew in the front line to keep the stock
from running off in various directions.
A vehicle or mule drawn wagon accompanied the Drive for rest stops with
iced tea, lemonade and water. Tired or sore guests could opt to ride to
the lunch stop or night camp. A lunch truck and trailer drove ahead to
the lunch stop to set up the lunch buffet before the riders trotted in.
After the lunch stop, the Drive continued toward the Upper Owens River
and Crowley Lake. Riders were warned that deep, dangerous bogs occurred
through the area and often looked like grassy spots among the sagebrush
or just a lush meadow area. In the past, horses have had to been dragged
out of the treacherous bogs with lariats and a strong horses.
Experienced cowboys were always on the lookout for these danger spots.
While the Drive was on the trail, a comfortable camp was established on
the grassy northeast shore of Crowley Lake with cold beverages and tasty
appetizers waiting to refresh tired new range hands. The camp crew led
by Mike Elam had the monumental task of moving and setting up camp each
day before the drive arrived at the evening campsite. Coals were glowing
in the barbecues as riders located a "homestead with a view", spot for
their tents. Kerry Roeser Elam and her kitchen crew were putting the
finishing touches on the delicious evening dinner. Hard riding in the
fresh, clear mountain air creates hearty appetites, and Kerry and her
friendly, always smiling kitchen crew met that challenge with delicious
home cooked meals to rival the finest urban restaurants.
The creek from Layton Spring runs into Crowley Lake and the water is
somewhat warm. The temperate spring that gushes out of the dry hillside
maintains the same temperature year round. Some guests walked over to
the pond at the spring for a refreshing dip to wash off the trail dust.
Crowley Lake was built by the Los Angeles Department of Water and Power
in 1941 to store Mono County water diverted for export to Los Angeles
and is famous for its big trout.
Crowley Lake lies along the eastern edge of the Long Valley Caldera that
erupted about 730,000 years ago depositing ash for hundreds of miles to
the east and creating the volcanic tableland. The elliptical valley is
20 miles long and is about 7,000 feet in elevation while the Sierra
Crest, just to the south, has peaks over 13,000 feet. Mammoth Mountain
is a volcano located on the western edge of the caldera.
After a scrumptious barbecue dinner, the new trail hands gathered at the
campfire to watch a rosy sunset over Mammoth Mountain while talking over
exciting events of the day. The pack outfit crew were introduced, cowboy
musicians entertained around the campfire, coffee pots were hung over
the fire and dessert served as guests huddled close to the campfire.
Tired riders soon drifted off to their warm sleeping bags to sleep
soundly.
The scent of freshly brewed cowboy coffee wafted through the chill dawn
as wranglers brushed and saddled the riding string. A soft mist hung
over the lake waters and guests gathered close to the blazing campfire.
The breakfast gong and the sizzle of sausage on the grill reminded the
"city slicker" cowboys of just how hungry they really were. There were
no comments of, "But I never eat breakfast at home."
Lou Roeser, was Trail Boss and he instructed the Cowboys For a Day on
planned procedures for the Drive. "Driving horses is quite different
than driving cattle! A Horse Drive is more like a holding operation than
a pushing one, as most of these horses have been on this trail before,
know where they are going and are in a big hurry to get there. Our job
is to hold the herd together, keep a good pace and get them safely to
Independence in good shape". Larry, camp host announced, "Today, we'll
cross Layton Creek, skirt the shore of Crowley Lake, then climb steeply
up over Alligator Point to the east of camp. The views of Long Valley
and Mammoth Mountain are spectacular up on top. Then, we'll head east to
Casa Diablo Mountain and the old sheep camp there."
After the steep climb to the summit, Lou signaled for a rest stop for
the stock. The sagebrush covered volcanic tableland stretches to the
east and is dotted with Jeffrey pines, pinyon pines and juniper. Lunch
stop was in a shady Jeffrey pine forest surrounded by pink Bishop tuff
rock that made an easy spot to hold the stock. High lines were stretched
between trees and the saddle animals were tied to the lines. Riders took
turns holding the herd while others ate lunch. After the warm, dusty
climb, the rest under tall pines was welcome.
Casa Diablo Mountain is a granite knob, protruding through the volcanic
tuff. This is sheep country and flocks graze the benches during the
summer months. Run-off water drains into the porous tuff so there are no
running streams only a few springs are located in the tableland. As the
Drive trotted into the Casa Diablo camp, on a pinion-covered bench, the
crew were waiting with fresh water in the water truck and a load of
alfalfa hay hauled in for the herd. Horses and mules nickered in
anticipation and some of the guests helped the crew feed the stock in
the fenced enclosure.
Riders gratefully located a chair under the shading canvas tarp with a
cold drink to recall the adventures of the trip. Lou told the group,
"Tomorrow, we'll ride down the volcanic tableland (called the Casa
Diablo Grade) to the Laws Corrals in the Owens Valley where we'll be
3,000 feet lower in elevation than when we began our trip. It might even
be mild enough for a quick swim in the cool Owens River waters."
Looking toward the Sierra, the camp faced across to Mt. Tom and the
great Coyote Warp or bend of the Sierra. The pink glow on Mt. Tom lured
photographers and a rising moon made its timely appearance just at
campfire time. Brightly colored tents dotted the bench among the trees.
Cowboy poetry and western guitar songs ended the evening while a lone
coyote added his yip to the ballads. Tired riders and crew reluctantly
left the cozy campfire to roll into warm bedrolls. Nights are cool in
the mountains and morning comes early.
In the morning, the experienced pack station crew offered riding and
horsemanship instruction and pointers to guest riders. This seminar
helped the riders to be more comfortable riding on the trip. The
wranglers adjusted stirrups and bridles, and tightened cinches. Suddenly
everyone was mounted and ready to ride. Lou cautioned, "Stay alert!
We'll have to really hold back the herd on the Casa Diablo Hill or they
will run all the way to Bishop! Riders stay to the sides of the herd and
riders in the back don't push the herd."
Lee Roeser added, "I'll be following behind you with the truck and horse
trailer for tired rider or horse transport. When the grade levels out,
we'll stop and rest the herd while riders can tank up on liquids. We
don't want anyone to become dehydrated on this warm day."
Lou motioned for the packers to make a tight line of riders across the
road in front of the herd. The crew had been with the Pack Outfit for
years and knew just where to be positioned in order to best control the
bunch of eager horses. Other wranglers would be scattered throughout the
remuda to assist riders and herd the laggards.
Instructions given, Lou waved his arm signaling, "Move 'em out!" and
cowboys opened the corral gate. The herd thundered out and the new
trailwise wranglers trotted to the top of the Casa Diablo grade
overlooking the golden Owens Valley. As the herd plunged over the crest
of the hill, trail dust enveloped the Drive with only the creak of
saddle leather, hooves clattering on rocks and occasional hoots defining
the riders. The cowboys tightly surrounded the herd containing the
animals until they were lined out on the volcanic mesa land. Outriders
had to constantly dodge the chollo cactus on the Grade.
There is no shade on this tableland and guests gratefully gathered under
the tarps and the shade from the pack station trucks to eat lunch and
drink gallons of iced tea. Tie lines were tied between rigs for the
saddle horses and the crew and guests took turns keeping the herd
bunched up during the lunch stop.
The Drive then continued downward to the Upper Owens Valley and the Laws
Corrals. The Owens River has cut a 700-foot deep gorge through the
volcanic tableland to reach the floor of the valley. The Laws corrals
are part of an old cattle ranch dating back to the 1860's. The ranches
in the northern Owens Valley were important supply points for Aurora,
Bodie and Mammoth City, early mining boomtowns. The Los Angeles
Department of Water and Power began buying most of the Owens Valley in
1905 in order to secure their water rights as they diverted precious
water to Los Angeles. There are few privately owned ranches in the
valley - all land is leased from the City.
Camp was near the river and many riders took advantage of a cool dip
although some gals complained of the muddy (gooey) river bottom. What
better way to remove trail dust and wash your hair too! The steaks were
cooked just right and the grilled fish fillets were a delightful
surprise to the guests. The evening was warm and balmy so a Virginia
Reel was called on the flat grassland of the campsite. By now all the
riders knew each other and good friendships had formed. Even the hard
working crew joined in for the lively dance.
The sun rose early in the eastern sky over the White Mountains. Crew and
guests were up early brushing the saddle horses. Guests lingered over
morning coffee and enjoyed the hearty breakfast prepared by the pack
station kitchen crew. Lou warned the guests that the Drive would have to
cross Highway 6 and that the herd had to be gathered up so that all
would cross together at once while the crew stopped traffic. Motorists
might not be expecting a large horse herd to cross the road in front of
them.
After crossing the Highway, the Drive trotted by Laws Station, built in
1883. The station was a major station on the Carson and Colorado
Railroad. The narrow gauge engine was affectionately called the "Slim
Princess" and it headed up the valley from Laws and over Montgomery Pass
to Carson City where it connected with the Virginia and Truckee
Railroad.. Traveling south it extended to Keeler at now dry Owens Lake
and made connections there with the Southern Pacific Railroad. The Laws
Railroad Museum offers a window to that period and the Slim Princess"
resides there along with the station, the stationmaster's house and
several of the passenger cars. The earliest town in the northern part of
the Owens Valley was Owensville, established in 1863, along the Owens
River near Laws. The town lasted but 2 years. A talc mill and cattle and
hay ranches dot the area now.
Marye informed the group, "From here to Zurich, an old shipping station
on the old narrow gauge railroad, we will follow the route of the Carson
and Colorado Railroad. There is little to see of the tracks now, only an
occasional weathered railroad tie. But, iron spikes can still be found
jutting out of the sand".
Day four was the longest stretch of trail on the "Long Dry Trail" as the
riders pointed the herd southeast along the base of the abrupt White
Mountains. White Mountain Peak at 14,246 feet is the third highest
mountain in California, only slightly lower than the tallest Mount
Whitney at 14, 494 feet not far south from here. Death Valley, to the
east, is below sea level. The Owens Valley is a long narrow block of the
earth's crust, which was down dropped between two uplifted fault block
mountain ranges on the east and west. The Sierra Nevada range is on the
west and the White/Inyo Range is on the east with great fault
escarpments of each range bordering the valley.
Cottonwoods and willow trees lining the Owens River banks had turned a
bright yellow to match the blooming rabbit brush. In 1860, the valley
had few trees and grass only along the river and sloughs. Early ranchers
diverted water and developed the grasslands seen today. The Owens River,
(called Wakopee by the Paiute Indians), was named by John C. Fremont for
Richard Owens, a member of his 1845-46 expedition.
Riders and stock settled into their pace for the remainder of the trip.
Strings of mules that were used to trailing together along narrow
mountain trails, now strung along through the sagebrush and much
whinnying occurred when they became separated. Guests and crew conversed
together as they chased after strays, blocked cattle guards, and held
the herd together. They had to be alert to dodge dangerous snarls of old
barbed wired lying on the ground, remnants of the many small ranches
that used to mark the Owens Valley. Young horses still looked for a
chance to break free of the remuda and dash to the river. "Do I see an
iron spike over there?" called out Marye.
Seasoned horse drivers assured their friends, "See, I told you --- isn't
this great! It's just like, "The Man From Snowy River!" Nervous first
time riders now began to relax and muse, "Hey, I am really doing it! I
have always had a secret dream to ride with the cowboys and now I am!"
The Cal Tech Radio Observatory towers are just north of Zurich and the
towers are focused on far distant quasars in space. Modern technology
meets old time frontier action as the herd loped by. The sun was setting
behind the high Palisade crags and the glaciers looming above, when the
herd trotted into ranch corrals at Zurich another old station on the
railroad line. Camp was nestled in a shady cluster of willow trees along
the grassy riverbank and dinner was simmering. The evening was balmy,
crickets hummed, frogs croaked and an occasional owl was heard.
The last night was traditionally a humorous "awards" program hosted by
cowboy poet, Larry Maurice. Serious awards were also earned. After 10
horse drives, a silver buckle was awarded, at 15 Drives spurs were
presented, and at 20 drives a silver bit was awarded. The guests enjoyed
old-fashioned peach cobbler and the campfire burned late as guests
savored their last night in camp together and requested their favorite
western songs from Dave Stamey.
The final morning arrived early with everyone a little sad that the end
of the trail was almost in sight. Some of the crew and previous horse
drivers related the story of a stampede on an earlier drive to the new
guests.
"The Owens Valley is a practice training area for military fighter jets
and were expected throughout the lower valley. However, this last
morning, we had left Tinnemaha Reservoir and were proceeding to the
lunch stop near Aberdeen. Two fighter jets suddenly appeared above us
traveling toward the south when they had spotted the herd with its trail
of tell tail dust. Lou said, "Oh, Oh, Trouble!" as he noticed the jets
circling to the west. Sure enough, they circled around, dove low and
came directly at us one behind the other. They were flying so low, we
could see the pilots and I swear we could see them smiling. They were
directly on top of us when the first sonic boom hit. The herd jumped in
unison and then the 2nd sonic boom from the second fighter plane hit
us."
"It was an all out stampede! The loose stock immediately outran the
riders who were trying to control their mounts and it looked as though
they wouldn't stop before Independence. Hats went sailing off into the
sagebrush but nobody fell off! The crew in the front took out after the
leaders to stop them. Other crew and guests gathered up the slower
horses and attempted to slow the remainder of the herd down. The wild
bunch ran quite a ways before they were stopped and held up by the
cowboys. Several wranglers looked for lost hats in the desert brush. The
rest of the Drive eventually caught up to the still nervous loose herd
and we then continued on to the lunch stop. The horses and mules were
still so jittery that we all ate our lunch in the saddle. The crew made
up sandwiches to order and delivered them to us. Lou and the crew were
really proud of the guests and the job that we did! The whole story was
recounted at the evening campfire."
This Drive passed above the east side of Tinnemaha Reservoir, a water
storage lake for the aqueduct system and suddenly a small herd of tule
elk were spotted angling in front of the Drive. The tule elk, a smaller
relative of the Roosevelt elk, were transplanted to the Owens Valley in
the 1930's from the Central Valley, have thrived and now number about
2,000 animals. The stock did not spook at the elk herd because they are
well acquainted with them in the horse pasture.
At Aberdeen, another old station site, a thick, shady grove of trees
sheltered the lunch stop along Goodale Creek. How wonderful it felt to
wash the alkali dust off your face in the icy stream. Saddle horses were
tied to picket lines in the shade of the grove while the remuda was
turned out into a nearby corral. The colorful daily lunch buffet
featured gourmet salads, fruits and a well stocked sandwich bar to tempt
the hungry buckaroosl
The Independence pasture is located just north of Fort Independence on
the east side of the Los Angeles Aqueduct. The 5,500 acre field extends
from the aqueduct canal to the base of the Inyo Mountains and lies at
about 4300 feet elevation. The pack station leased the pasture from the
Department of Water and Power as winter grazing for the horses and
mules.
The riders mounted up one last time, and watered the herd in Goodale
Creek before pointing the remuda south on the last leg of the long
journey. Horses and Mules were eager now as they sensed that the pasture
was just ahead with grass, ponds and a winter of leisure awaiting them.
Driving the herd along the one lane dirt aqueduct canal road to the
pasture was rather tense. The straight sided canal banks and deep water
prevented a horse from scrambling out should one slip in. Two horses had
to be dragged out of the canal with ropes on earlier drives. Crew riders
were very vigilant on this last stretch of the Drive. At last, the
pasture gate was opened and the bunch poured through, headed for the
wooden corrals. The next day the pack station crew would pull shoes,
trim feet, brand new animals with the ML brand and worm the herd before
turning them out for the winter. The McGee Creek Pack Station animals
were sorted out and transported over to their winter headquarters at
8-Mile Ranch.
It was time for last photos, reluctant goodbyes, and "Kerry, put me on
the list for the Spring Drive!" Riders would head back to their other
urban lives, but only until the Spring Drive, when the horses and mules
would again be pointed north on the 100-mile "Long Drive" to the high
mountains of California's Sierra Nevada.
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